WELKITE, Ethiopia — Millions of Christians across Ethiopia gathered Sept. 27 and 28 to celebrate Meskel, a religious holiday commemorating the 4th-century discovery of the True Cross by Roman empress Helena. This year's observances were marked by fervent appeals for peace as conflict intensified in the country's northern Tigray region.
The Meskel holiday holds dual significance in Ethiopia, a largely agrarian nation. It marks both a sacred feast for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and signals the conclusion of the rainy season and the onset of spring.
In the capital, Addis Ababa, thousands assembled in Meskel Square for prayers before a large bonfire, known as Demera, was lit. UNESCO recognizes the celebrations as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. They draw particular enthusiasm in the southern parts of the country, drawing hundreds of thousands back to ancestral homes.
The backdrop to this year's festivities is renewed conflict in the volatile Tigray region. Ethiopian government troops are engaged in fighting with forces loyal to the Tigray People's Liberation Front, a conflict that has extended into neighboring Amhara and Afar regions. Concerns persist that hostilities could potentially involve Eritrea.
The escalating conflict directly impacted Kibrom Yohannes, who had traveled from Denmark to celebrate Meskel in Adigrat, Tigray. His flight to the region was canceled due to the eruption of fighting.
Instead, Yohannes found himself celebrating in Welkite among strangers, worried about his family in Tigray. "My elderly mother is in Tigray, along with my wife, who is visiting, and our extended family. I had not seen most of them for five years, and I had brought diabetes medication for my mother. Now, with the interruption of flights, I am worried about her condition worsening," he said, speaking around a bonfire.
The renewed fears of war echo the Tigray conflict that concluded in 2022, a devastating period that resulted in thousands of deaths and the displacement of more than one million people. Many Ethiopians are now offering collective prayers for national peace and unity.
Firekreab Lebeza, a 22-year-old Orthodox Church deacon, underscored the universal need for tranquility. "Peace is essential for everything; without it, we can neither celebrate our holidays nor engage in meaningful dialogue," he said.
Teklemariam Sahlemariam, a Toronto-based lawyer who visited Welkite for a second consecutive year, noted a decrease in the number of visitors this year. Despite this, he described being moved by the celebrations, which featured significant pageantry.
