Dominic Sessa plays Anthony Bourdain at 19—awkward, ambitious, chain-smoking and almost entirely full of borrowed ideas. Director Matt Johnson's Tony is a fictionalized biopic focused on a single summer: 1975, Provincetown, Mass. when a rudderless Bourdain stumbled into a seafood kitchen and found the thing that would define the rest of his life.

The film opens with Bourdain enrolled at Vassar College, nursing ambitions to be a novelist. The problem, as Johnson shows it, is that he has nothing real to write about. His frame of reference runs to Jack Kerouac and George Orwell, whose ideas he has memorized rather than absorbed. He courts a girl named Nancy, played by Emilia Jones, partly by pretending to be a serious writer.

"Do you know what providence means?" the young Bourdain asks her. "It means God is finally paying attention to me." The line captures the character Johnson and Sessa construct: genuine charm wrapped around a core of pure self-invention.

Bourdain himself later described that version of himself as a "spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout" who was "badly in need of a good ass-kicking." The film delivers one. After a drunken night ends with Bourdain punched out, robbed and effectively homeless, he winds up washing dishes at a local seafood restaurant.

The restaurant's proprietor—identified only as Chef—is played by Antonio Banderas. He is a scruffy, self-possessed Hemingway type: well-traveled, skilled with his hands, living beside the sea, catching his own food, drinking hard liquor with a calm that inspires confidence. Banderas plays him without flash. The character's authority comes from competence, not performance.

Chef becomes the paternal presence Bourdain has been missing. Johnson uses the kitchen dynamic to argue something specific: that intellectual posturing collapses on contact with people who can actually do things. The men around Bourdain can shuck an oyster and fillet a fish. They produce something tangible. Bourdain, who has spent his young life cultivating the appearance of sophistication, encounters competence as a virtue for the first time.

Sessa carries the film's early sections on charm alone, making a character who is genuinely insufferable worth following anyway. Johnson's script then works the long middle section—Bourdain learning, being humbled, returning, learning again—without rushing the transformation or making it neat. The pretension does not evaporate. It erodes.

The film is bookended by two admissions interviews. The first features Bourdain pitching a half-formed novel idea to his Vassar professors, condescending and clueless in equal measure. The second, in the film's coda, shows a sobered Anthony Bourdain who has found a medium for his ambitions. Between those two interviews runs the whole of the movie—what gave him something worth saying.

Bourdain enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America following that Provincetown summer, a fact the film's ending points toward without dwelling on it. The biographical record that Tony draws from places that 1975 summer as the pivot: the moment when a young man who wanted to write about life started actually living one.

Banderas's Chef is the film's best argument. He functions as the mentor archetype Johnson needs without feeling like a device. He spots Bourdain's potential the way a scout spots an athlete—sees what is underneath the performance—and gives him a place to learn real skills. Not literary skills. Physical, repeatable, professional ones. The kitchen, in Johnson's telling, is where Bourdain stops describing life and starts inhabiting it.

Bourdain died in 2018. Tony makes no effort to encompass the full arc of his career—the restaurants, the television, the writing, the final years. It takes one summer and stays there. That constraint is the film's discipline, and it works. A 19-year-old who knows nothing is a better subject than a famous man explaining himself.