SRINAGAR — The handwoven Kashmir carpet industry, celebrated for centuries as a pinnacle of global craftsmanship, now confronts a sharp decline as younger generations abandon the labor-intensive trade that has historically defined the region's artistry.
Until the 1980s, carpets were Kashmir's primary export. Trade volumes have since decreased steadily, with recent conflicts in Ukraine and the Middle East adding further pressure.
The intricate carpets are crafted from mulberry silk or pure sheep wool, hand-spun and dyed with natural colors, then woven on traditional handlooms. Each square inch contains between 300 and several thousand knots, depending on design complexity. Finished pieces have graced imperial courts, museums and luxury homes worldwide.
Younger Kashmiris have turned away from the profession due to demanding hours and insufficient pay. A master weaver currently earns approximately 500 rupees, or $5, per day—less than many unskilled laborers.
Bashir Ahmad, 78, a weaver, said younger people would pursue the craft if it offered a stable living, particularly given the scarcity of government jobs.
During weaving, artisans chant a design code known as talim—a handwritten strip of paper with ancient symbols representing numbers and colors, guiding the knotting of threads. Creating a single carpet can take a group of artisans up to a year. Finished pieces can command prices as high as $20,000 in international markets.
The craft arrived in Kashmir during the 15th century through Persian travelers and gained significant patronage under King Zain-ul-Abidin Budshah, the last local monarch. The handicraft thrived first in Srinagar, then expanded across Indian-administered Kashmir.
Mushtaq Ahmad, 75, who has woven carpets for 50 years, said he would continue the work as long as his strength allows.
The sector now employs roughly 30,000 people, down sharply from hundreds of thousands three decades ago.
Zubair Ahmad, director of the Indian Institute of Carpet Technology in Srinagar, said the government provides modern carpet looms free of cost to attract new workers. The government has also implemented geographical indication tags for Kashmiri carpets to verify authenticity and build trust between buyers and sellers.
