Omega has unveiled a redesigned Speedmaster 38 mm collection with seven references that align the smaller model more closely with the original 42 mm Moon watch in design. The entry-level Milano Cortina 2026 reference carries a $6,800 retail price in the United States, €6,700 in Europe and CHF 5,300 in Switzerland.
The most visible change is the return to round sub-dials. The first-generation 38 mm, released in 2017, used ovalized sub-dials that softened the chronograph's appearance and distanced it from the classic Speedmaster aesthetic. All seven new references revert to the circular sub-dial layout found on the original Moon watches NASA astronauts wore on lunar missions.
Omega replaced the first generation's complex two-piece bezel with single-piece bezel inserts carrying a clear tachymeter scale, another design element from the standard Speedmaster. The dial printing is minimalist across the lineup, and every reference ships on a five-link bracelet—matching the hardware of the traditional Moon watch rather than the alligator straps common to earlier 38 mm versions.
For collectors, the redesigned 38 mm includes the 'Dot-Over-90'—a small dot printed above the 90 on the tachymeter scale. The detail appears on original Moon watches, and its absence from certain Omega reissues divided the collector community. Its inclusion addresses a long-standing criticism from that segment.
The seven-reference lineup spans a wide style range. One is a no-date black dial model that draws directly from the utilitarian appearance of the Speedmasters carried to the Moon. The other end features a mother-of-pearl dial framed by diamonds, targeting a different buyer profile.
For collectors who followed the discontinued 39 mm Speedmaster Reduced—a cult reference that developed a dedicated following before Omega pulled it from production—the black no-date variant serves as the closest revival the brand has offered. The Reduced was never an official Moon watch successor, but its size and aesthetic made it the preferred entry point for buyers who found the standard 42 mm case too large.
The Speedmaster's history begins in 1957, when Omega released the original as a lap-timer designed for auto racing. Its trajectory changed in 1962 when it went into orbit, and by the time NASA selected it as the official watch for astronaut use, the 42 mm case had become the reference against which all Speedmaster variants are measured. The 2017 Speedmaster 38 fell into a different category—its colorful dials, alligator straps and diamond options positioned it as a departure from the core Moon watch lineage.
The new collection's movement is the Omega calibre 3330, an automatic movement driven by a rotor rather than requiring manual winding. The original Moon watch used a hand-wound movement; some watch enthusiasts have noted that a manual-winding calibre would have been more faithful to the design.
At $6,800, the new Speedmaster 38 sits below the standard 42 mm Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, which retails higher in most markets. The price positioning gives buyers who want the Speedmaster design language in a smaller case a defined entry point without crossing into the flagship's territory.
